Tuesday 9 August 2011

Pyhä Unplugged, sweet tones swirling towards the August sky

Here in the north we make sure to enjoy the summer months in as many ways as possible. We enjoy the great outdoors so much, that we bring life outdoors, do everything outdoors – eat, play and sleep. Culture is brought outdoors too.

This summer I was invited to Pyhä Unplugged, it is a half-acoustic music festival held in the great landscapes of Pyhätunturi fell. The event is organized by Pyhä Ski Resort and every year a great selection of best Finnish artists to Pyhä is gathered. So I was truly looking forward to a fun and relaxing weekend with good music!

The main attraction is the concerts in Aittakuru gorge, an open-air amphitheathre amidst magnificent nature. The second day of my stay in Pyhä I went to the afternoon concert which was started by Johanna Rusanen, a Finnish Opera singer. She entertained us with a potpourri of movie music. Her first song was a tender, tender love song “Sua vain yli kaiken mä rakastan” (I love you above everything). The acoustics in Aitakuru is incredible. As Johanna’s magnificent voice filled the gorge I got the chills and was totally absorbed by the moment. The setting in the midst of nature that is as tender as the song, yet rough and rocky as love and life can be. The fresh air, the sunshine of an August afternoon, the beautiful music – words are not enough to describe this experience. Tears, smiles, you truly stop to listen, to see and understand the beauty of nature, love and life.

Johanna continued taking us through the decades of movie music, mostly domestic, but some international tones too. In the middle of the concert, as I was sitting there gazing up towards the ridge of the gorge I saw some reindeer strolling up there. Wonder if they were there for the music too…

Applause brought on an encore and there could not have been a more perfect encore. The beautiful tones of the Titanic swirled up towards the August sky, dissolving into the grand nature, spreading emotions and pleasure on their way. How will I manage one whole year until the next time in Aittakuru? Luckily, I learnt that there is a Pyhä Unplugged Winter too.

Thursday 4 August 2011

Berries, berries everywhere I look!

I look at my watch before taking off from home on my bike. It is 8:47 on a Tuesday morning. Sunny, lovely and summerlike. I bike away to the local market place; it is only a few minutes ride away from my home. I can already feel the sweet, fresh taste, the lovely smell… of fresh strawberries, picked this morning. This is the best thing with summer – fresh strawberries. Here, in the land of the midnight sun the growth period is short but intense. When the berries grow, they grow 24 hours per day. I cannot seem to get enough of strawberries in the summer, I have at least one liter per day. Most certainly I buy as many liters as my co-citizens who freeze a lot of berries to last until next berry season. Mine never make it to the freezer.

We are spoilt with the clean and pure nature and environment here in the north. I think sometimes we do not realize how lucky we are, it is totally OK to eat blueberries from the forest, to pick wild mushrooms and berries. There are a lot of superfoods in our forests and luckily Finns are quite good in taking care of it. Probably the long winter has taught us to preserve the flavours and vitamins of the summer sun to be enjoyed during the cold winter months.

This brings my thoughts back to the first time I was served Crème Brûlé with berries at Restaurant Ukonkivi. There were some blueberries and some raspberries on top of the picture perfect and well known desert. They seemed fresh, but it was in the middle of winter and imported or cultivated berries do not have this kind of flavor. Later I asked the restaurant keeper, Heikki, what is the secret with the berries. He told me they are wild raspberries, they grow at the back of his garden and he handpicks them, freezes gently and takes up just the right amount for desert. Amazing, I thought. A restaurant owner who picks all the berries served in his restaurant. What a job, it is a lot of berries! No, but it is a hobby, so it does not even feel like work, Heikki explains.

Another berry-story is hidden in the desert of Forest Restaurant Huilinki. The berries are marinated in a light syrup, just the right amount of sugar to take off the sourness of the lingonberries and cranberries. Handpicked by the restaurant owners Hannu and Tellervo. “Well, they grow just there outside our home”; Tellervo laughed. Last fall I stayed in one of the cabins of LomaLopotti, that is on the premises of Forest Restaurant Huilinki and learnt mushrooms really grow in plentiful around the cabins. It was a dream to pick mushrooms, go indoors and prepare a delicious soup.

But it is not yet mushroom time, it is time to enjoy some tastes of summer. Back home with my daily portion of sunshine and vitamins, I sit down in my hammock and tuck in. There is not a better flavor than a sunwarm strawberry, picked this morning.

Tuesday 2 August 2011

On the roads of Lapland

I was driving home one late one summer night, listening to the radio, happy that it was not as hot as during the day anymore, as my old car does not have air conditioning. I was driving a route that I quite often drive, so was not paying much attention to the surroundings, rather keeping my eyes on the road and trying not to speed too much. It is hard to keep to the limits on an empty road.

On this route there is a place where the road crosses a lake on its narrowest point; the large lake opens up on both sides of the road. Here I normally throw a glance on the landscape, as it is a very beautiful place. This particular night I had to stop. The sun was kind of setting the way it does late July, it hangs there just by the horizon and throws amazing golden and pastel colors on the landscape. This night there were some dark clouds that added some drama to the view – breathtaking. I got out of the car and took in this scenery with all senses. It was so silent and still, the lake was like a mirror and the night air fresh and smelled of pine forest. You could feel it had been a warm day and also that tomorrow would be warm. The cooler nights are a blessing on a hot summer like this one.

I was so taken by the scenery, that I did not even take a photo. But it looked very much like our main picture, which is taken on another shore of the same lake (Lake Kitka); just use your imagination to add the few dark clouds and some dramatic light effects.

I continued driving. On moments like this I can fully understand why travelers prefer to do Finland on fly & drive basis in the summer. Drive from town to town or cottage to cottage. Plan everything in advance or do a real road trip and take it as it comes. Traffic is non-existent compared to Central Europe and the roads are fine throughout the country. And like just stated; the landscapes are beautiful!

There are hazards on our roads too - the wildlife. Mostly reindeer come up on the roads and they can move around in herds, so this is what you are up against (picture taken by a friend of mine who drives the same route as I do just as often as I do):

I find the mighty elk scary when sighted from a car. Last summer I was driving late at night on this same route I had an encounter with an elk. It was by a large swamp, it was a bit foggy from the ground, as it gets when the air cools down at night and the moist swamp is warmer and evaporates. There he was, standing tall and mighty in the fog. Luckily he stayed there, as that is a huge animal and I am happy as long as they are not on the same roads as I am. That would also have been a photo-perfect moment; I have to start making photo stops to capture these moments when driving on the roads here in Lapland.

Among others, these European tour operators organize fly & drive tours to Lapland:

Voigt Travel, The Netherlands

fintouring, Germany

Kontiki Saga Reisen, Switzerland

Catai, Spain