The Finnish Sauna

When people ask me what do I love the most in Finland, I have three words to say: “Revontulet” (or Northern lights), “Pulla” (typical Finnish pastries) and “Sauna”. Of course I definitely love the stunning beauty of Lapland´s different seasons, mostly winter, plenty, plenty of snow, and many other things, but those 3 small details always make my day.

People, especially Finnish, are very shocked when I say I love sauna, because I come from a very warm place (Barcelona!) where the last thing you would think about is to get into a closed hot room. If you want to sweat, you just have to wait for summer and you will sweat every minute of the day and night. But sauna is different. Sauna is not about sweating, is a place to rest your body and your spirit. It is a tradition in Finland, every home has a sauna and from children to grandparents, everybody uses it.

It is important, nonetheless, always to take some precautions: you need fresh water close to don’t dehydrate yourself; if you feel it’s starting to become hard for you to stay on the sauna, go out and refresh a bit if you will stay longer; and don’t do any efforts inside, just relax.

To be honest, the first sauna is often overwhelming. It is hard to stay in such a hot and small place, especially for not very open minded people. But you should not give up, no way! Because when you get used to it, it becomes the best part of the day, you feel how your muscles relax and your skin is cleaned and you just let your mind fly away somewhere. Be careful, because sometimes it flies so away you can fall sleep! But, afterwards, you really feel like heaven.

Traditionally Finns have some branches of young birch tied together in a whisk they call “vasta” that use to hit gently on the skin. It helps the skin to “open” and be better cleaned. Personally I have never used one of those, but what I love to do while saunabathing is something most people think is crazy: I just LOVE to run to the snow and jump on it and then return fast to the sauna. Believe me when I say it feels great!


There is something more which is traditional for Finns and that most of the foreigners can’t really do. Finnish people go to the sauna naked, because it is place to clean your body and spirit, where nothing else matters. I’ve been living quite a long time on a dormitory where there was only international students, and most of them could not “deal with it”, and keep going with swimsuit and feel embarrassed to look at the rest of the people. In that cases I use a Spanish idiom that says “Allá dónde fueres, haz lo que vieres”, what means you have to embrace the culture of the places you visit, so in that case, don’t feel any shame!

Ester

Pictures are from Isokenkäisten Klubi, a place with five saunas, one of them a smoke sauna and one a lake side sauna, the rest electric saunas.

Sauna – The Essence of Finland

This is not only a title of a book by Keijo Taskinen (published Kirjakaari, 2011), it is the truth about Finnish sauna. Us Finns have a very special relationship to the sauna. It is a weekly routine, but also a place to retreat to and find peace of mind and physical relaxation and wellbeing. For us the sauna just needs to be hot, we know just how to enjoy the heat and the silence. A wood heated sauna has the sound of burning fire and that is very relaxing…

The book “Sauna – The Essence of Finland” presents the Finnish Sauna with its meanings and traditions and makes it understandable to foreigners. Sauna is Finnish Wellbeing, but it is by no means a spa experience. In the book our strange and very strong connection to the sauna is well described, in words and with pictures. There are for sure many surprising things you will learn about Finnish Sauna, e.g. that even dogs love it, there are concerts held in a sauna and that the sauna tradition includes also the things you do after the sauna.

Another fascinating thing is that a sauna is not a fixed, defined space, there are many, many different saunas in Finland. The mother of all saunas is the smoke sauna, the most traditional one, these exist since “the beginning of times”. Finns living abroad miss the sauna and I have heard about a tent sauna being put up on a beach in Thailand as well as in a suburb in South Africa. We are also very good at reinventing the sauna, time and again. The ice saunas have become quite popular and it is a surreal experience to have a hot bath in a building made of cold crystal clear ice.

Picture is from Isokenkäisten Klubi Seven Stars Smoke Sauna
The Finnish Sauna is a way too wide and important thing to write only one entry about. Therefore we will share a series of sauna experiences with you, reflecting on how Finns and foreigners feel about the sauna. You are most welcome to share your sauna experiences and thoughts, comment and ask questions!

Feeling like a queen in the middle of the forest

There is a place in Ruka where luxury and traditional Finnish nature collide. Chalets with all the facilities you can ask for and more but only a few steps from the unspoiled forest. And this place has a name, of course: Rukan Salonki.

First time I was there I was guiding a group of tourist, so I didn’t really have the time to enjoy the surrounding. That’s why I convinced some friends and we went there to spend a few days in those chalets.

When I told them about the chalets, they were very suspicious, and it was understandable! What would you think if I tell you to spend some days in a chalet with sauna, many bathrooms, kitchen, TV, living room, Internet connection… and especially after seeing pictures of the place, where everything is wooden and the decoration makes it cozy but still impressive? For sure you would think it would be too expensive, so my friends did! But high-quality doesn’t mean exorbitant prices. If it was like that, how a group of young people and students as my friends could enjoy those facilities?


I prepared a program where we could always have time on the evening to relax and enjoy the chalet and the surrounding, because they are worth it. The first impression my friends had when arriving to the chalets was a homogeneous “woow”. They started looking around amazed; they could believe that chalet was ours for a few days. “Look, there is a fire-place! And look at the TV! Have you seen the rooms? And there is even sauna! This is awesome!” – they were saying all the time.


That first night, when everyone was more exited and had plenty of energy, we took some kick sledges that were next to the chalet and started exploring around. Of course we had the hope to see northern lights, because the resort is far enough to spot them without light-pollution interruption, but we weren’t lucky that night. Anyway, we had lots of fun with the kick-sledges and the feeling of freedom the place gave us, like if we were really far from any civilization.
After that, we had to warm ourselves, so what’s better than our own sauna in the chalet? Afterwards we were so relaxed that fall sleep immediately until the next morning.


The next morning we had breakfast in the restaurant that is the centre of the resort, Kultala, and we enjoyed a buffet with homemade bread, jam, coffee, tea, chocolate, cookies, cornflakes, ham… whatever we needed for a new day. Later that day, when we came back in the evening after a day outdoors I had prepared a surprise for my friends. When we arrive into the chalet again I told them “take your towels and follow me! No questions allowed!”. They were surprised, but they know me well enough to trust I would bring them something nice. But this time they didn’t even imagined what I was going to show them. An ice sauna! Sounds strange, I know, but it is true. A sauna built of the ice.


We had that amazing experience together and then we decided to have dinner on Kultala, since I told them the food was good and they could see that at breakfast. The menu was some reindeer rolled with vegetables, salad, soup, homemade bread and a sweet dessert with berries. Everything was great!

The last evening we decided to take some snowshoes and walk around hunting for northern lights, enjoying the nature and the beautiful Lappish sky (for me is always awesome with so many millions of stars). Since it was our last night there, after a sauna (it is always very pleasant after a day outdoors), we watched a film on the big screen we had on the chalet while some of my friends connected to the Internet to share those days we spent.

The next morning we had again a delicious breakfast at the cozy restaurant Kultala and spend some time playing with the snow and the sledges on the ice slope they had next to the lake until our transportation came. A friend of mine who loves photography took incredible pictures of the area with the day light and then, once home, we compared with the ones she was taking at night time, and they looked so different it didn’t seemed the same place. At the end, after all the experiences they told me “You were right, that place definitely worth it”.

Ester

Fisherman’s Friends & Fisherman's Delicacy Buffet

On one of my trips while guiding was to a fisherman’s village. Even if you don’t like fishing, you would like this programme.

We step out from the bus and were by a huge completely frozen lake. A cozy “kota” was nearby and the fishermen were already waiting for us. They all were very excited and smiling, what surprised me, how can someone love so much fishing? After introducing themselves, we put our way out to the lake. Most of the people were quite worried, maybe even a bit scared, because they had never seen such a big frozen lake, and they were not sure about stepping on the ice. Then Tuomo, the owner of the place, standing on the frozen lake asked the children “who wants to go on a snowmobile?”. The children of course ran to him, into the middle of the lake, while all the parents held their breath... I thought it was a very good strategy, because then everybody saw it was completely safe to go on the ice.


We walked some meters, leaving the “kota” behind, and we stopped next to a kind of stick standing on the middle of the lake. Tuomo explained us it was an important part of the ice-fishing, because it points you where you made the hole, and so also prevents anyone to fall in there by accident. Then he started explaining how the ice-fishing is done, asking always volunteers to help him. At the beginning the people were not sure to be so close to the hole, but later everybody wanted to help. We had some nice catch with the net, and then it was time to try the individual ice-fishing.

We could make a hole on the ice and then sit by it and try to catch something with a rod. He said the most important thing was the patience, that sometimes you could stay there for hours and get nothing, but that was what Finns love: the calm and the silence, where they could just relax and think. And be happy even when not catching any fish for hours… We were very lucky with that, because one of the children was very excited about it and following every single word Tuomo said during all the activity, and so he sat by a hole and waited there completely quiet and doing exactly as Tuomo said. And this gave him a prize! He caught a fish, but he was so surprised when it pulled the rod that he let it go. Nevertheless, Tuomo was not angry and we all laughed at the situation.


After the fishing experience, we came back to the kota and it came out it was the restaurant Tuomo and her wife run. It was a very traditional Lappish kota, with the fireplace on the middle and the tables around. Everybody whispered “hmmm!” once we felt the smell of the food and the warm of the kota after our fishing time. Tuomo explained his wife is in charge of the restaurant, cooking with her own traditional receipts, and always served the fish that lake gave. It was really surprising they could get so much fish from the lake, especially because all the fishing was done in a very traditional way. How many hours they would spend fishing? Definitely, they had to love it.

The lunch was a very diverse buffet with all kind of fish prepared in many different ways, different kind of potatoes, salads, vegetables, house-made bread, berry juice and delicious sweet desserts. I’ve never liked fish very much (my mother was always complaining I only liked one kind of and always cooked the same way) but I tried everything in the buffet because everything looked delicious, and I’ll never regret tasting all of it! Everything tasted so nice taste I had to take more!

Many people was asking about the decoration inside of the kota, from wooden sculptures to reindeer and elk horns, and Tuomo was kindly explaining the story behind all of them, always smiling. I really felt like home at that restaurant.

But it is not possible to stay there forever, so when it was time to leave and we step into the bus again, Tuomo and all the rest of the workers went out to say goodbye while the bus was driving away.

Ester

You can find Fisherman's Friends in our Winter Fun! programs and Fisherman's Delicacy Buffet in our Countryside Restaruants selection.

Northern Lights - the heavenly fire

Northern Lights are the highlight for most Lapland visitors – and us locals we are mezmerized by them every time. They are the source of many myths and legends and brighten up a dark winter sky quite often… and touch a very soft spot in you.

Ester has been out hunting Northern Lights a few nights, here her story:


There is one thing in Lapland that makes everyone fall in love with it. It is a magic phenomenom only happening in special places in a special time. I’m talking about the Northern Lights.
The sight of the Auroras Borealis (another name for the Northern Lights) is one of the most beautiful natural phenomenoms you can imagine. The lighting colors on the ski, moving as if they were waves, making you feel part of something mystical.

But there is a small problem: the Northern lights are whimsical. There are three things you have to follow if you want to see them. First, you need a dark place. City lights and other light polution can trick your eyes and hide the Northern Lights. Second, a clear sky. Clouds will interfere your vision. And third, and maybe the most important, luck. To be at the right place at the right time. Nevertheless, this winter they are being really active, so it’s a good chance to try!

The better way to try to see the Auroras Borealis is by a night safari. There are several activities around the Northern Lights hunting and all of them are prepared to have the ideal conditions. For example, a great safari which allowed me to see the Northern Lights was a visit to a reindeer farm at night. It started when we reached the farm, were the owners welcomed us warmly. We took part in a Lappish ceremony based on traditional Sámi-people Shaman’s myths and stories. The Sámi are the Lappish natives who traditionally started working with reindeers. They also explained a lot of interesting thing about reindeers and how the herdering is a way of life of many inhabitants in Lapland. After all this information while warming up, was time to start the safari.


We step into a one-reindeer pulled sleigh in couples. It is a perfect place to be with someone special :) The safari starts going deeply into the middle of the nature. You enjoy the special sound of the forests at night while looking at the sky exited to see the Auroras. Meanwhile I was thinking about all the people that used to travel on reindeer sleigh always, when it was the only way of moving through Lapland in winter time. Then suddenly, I saw them: the Northern Lights. It was a breathtaking sight: a huge wave of green and blue colors, brigthening on the open sky, moving as if the blowing breeze affected them. Those were ones of the longest and stunning Auroras I’ve ever seen. When the safari was finnished, we got into a Kota and had some hot drinks while explaining many stories about the Northern Lights, making the night unforgettable.

Another safari that gave me the opportunity of enjoying the phenomenom was in a kick-sled. It was a very funny night, because it was my first time using one of them. It started in a small resort in the middle wilderness, far from any city lights. After some information about the Auroras and a movie, was time to go hunting for them! The nature surrounding the place was as stunning as always and the sky was clear (hoorray!). We started our small adventure by the kick-sledges, having a lot of fun with it, until we reach a special place to stop. Once there, we drinked some hot chocolate (it tastes even better after some exercise and with the coldness around you) while getting through some nice stories. When we were starting to come back, with the feeling to had a good night even if we didn’t saw the Northern Lights, someone called out loud to look at the sky and, can you guess? Green waves of brighten colors were dancing above our heads. “A perfect night”, I thought.


The last, but not least, experience I want to share with you was a night in a snowmobile safari were, even if I couldn’t spot the Auroras, I had a great time.
This special snowmobile safari is a drive through the night in one of those amazing engines. Can be that I’m influenced by my love to motorbikes, but even the most scared people always enjoys the ride from the beginning to the end. We got into the forest, driving away from the city, to have a break by a campfire. I already told you I didn’t saw the Northern Lights that day, but the Lappish sky, when you’re in the middle of nowhere, is just amazing. You can’t figure out how many millions of stars are shinning just above you. I was born in a big city, where spoting one star on the sky is impossible, but even going to the mountains I couldn’t see as many stars as I see in my nights in Lapland. Moreover, that night there was fullmoon, big, round and bright, leading the sky.


When people tell me I’m just crazy to live here I just have to remind all these magical moments to smile and remember why I love Lapland.

And for those who have not yet seen the amazing video by Visit Finland, you find it HERE!
Enjoy! And it is even more spectacular live

A day with huskies

Our spanish guide and work trainee Ester got inspired to write about A day with huskies.

I love it everytime and it is not something hard to understand, because not everyday you can be a musher!

A couple of days ago I was at a Husky Farm. It wasn´t my very first time, but it always feels like it is. When you’re approaching the centre of the farm you see dozens of dogs, jumping and barking excited to see some visitors. It is comprehensible, because they know it means they’re going to run, and that’s what they are living for: they love running on the snow, as if they were wolfs.


It is hard to stay calm while the guides are explaining the safety instructions, because you hear nonstop barking around you and above all - you are as excited as the dogs to get started! I remember when I was there for my first time and how some people was whispering “I can’t do it, seems too difficult! I’m gonna fall, sure!”. If you want and advice: don’t even think about it. Everyone who has followed the given safety instructions can do it (ok, maybe you can’t take part in a 500km race, but you can ride the sleigh without any problems on a guided Safari).


After that, the time starts to run fast because the adventure is beginning! You step into a six dogs sleigh, while they are already jumping trying to run, and when everybody is ready, the magic begins. The sleigh is untied and at the wink of an eye, you’re on the middle of a snow path driving the dog’s team.

It is unbelivable how in a second the nonstoping barking has become silence. If the dogs don’t hypnotize you completely, you should take a look around. The landscapes and scenery will definitely transport you into another world, where everything seems to be still in a time gone by. Untouched nature without any sight of human placements, snow and trees surrounding you, and the only sound you can hear is the the sleigh on the snow.


And it is then, in the middle of your trance, when you stop at an idyllic location in the forest. When the smell of food arrives to you, you realize how hungry you are! It’s time to relax and let the dogs rest, it is time to have lunch. Maybe I love food too much, but the meal was delicious! A very typical Finnish dish of elk meatballs and potatos with a creamy sauce, and at the end, a sweet dessert of berries picked from the surrounding forests. The fireplace in the middle of the room, as on the Lappish Kotas, makes the atmosphere warm and friendly, the perfect place to relax.


After this relaxing break is time to come back to your musher mode. I always share some minutes with my dogs before starting again, I want them to know me and to be sure they’re ready for the next ride. They are always up for some pats and cuddles! Then, once more, you’re in the middle of the stunning Lappish nature with only your dogs and the silence as only company.

When the safari is over you can’t believe you have been driving for hours! You really want to stay on the sleigh and run through the nature until your body says “stop”. But for animal lovers as me, this is maybe the best part: you can stroke and hug every single dog now! On this farm they were about 200 dogs, what of course made impossible the mission of stroking all of them, but I still could play and hug many,many dogs, including a couple of lovely playful puppies!




















When is time to go back home I always feel in the hurry to beg to the owner to let me live there, with the dogs, still if it sounds ridiculous (maybe that’s why at the end I never ask). But even if I can’t stay there forever, I’m always sure about one thing: I’ll be back, soon or later, and I’ll enjoy again the adventure as if it was the first time.

Ester